I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service There are a few things you can look for to tell if a suit is bespoke:Firstly, bespoke suits will always be made from premium materials. Vergallo would be a great starting point. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. Both Suresh and Mahesh will be touring the U.S. between November 16 and December 1, visiting New York, Washington D.C., Boston, Los Angeles and then returning to New York. If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? That makes more sense. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. This is slightly out of my budget. Im soon travelling to London, and am interested in a soft shouldered jacket or two. Some of us surely do not desire to try out lots of tailors but love and romantically hatch the idea of naturally having your tailor where you get many different things from over the years and build a trusting relationship. I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. How does their house style translate to a relatively casual sports coat (like a tweed jacket with some casual detailing that could be worn down with denim, or up for the office with flannel)? So, the duo determined that theyd fulfill the role of giving clients good, honest guidance, before recruiting a team of Savile Row trained cutters and tailors, including John McCabe and Bob Bigg, highly experienced stalwarts of the Row with close to 120 years combined experience. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. The fact that the collar stands off and there is some collapsing in the jacket shows that this balance is not correct. How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? Do you still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation? Henry Poole etc.) I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. Very good sales and marketing. So be prepared that its a risk. I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. 192 following. That means the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. Would W&S be a good option. I initially thought I would go for A&S as I love the style and think they would guide me through the process extremely well. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. (Living in Paris and only going from time to time to London, difficult to sync with the neapolitan tailors). Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . Thank you for your help and the great website. Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket? We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. Do you know anything about her? Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details as possible. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. A similar question. I think theyd certainly do a very good job. Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. This is great to know. You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. Im looking at getting a first sportsjacket for casual wear made but the justification of 1500 for one despite the longetivity is negative. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. P.S. 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. shoes, shirts, etc.)? Since I am attempting to avoid the common pitfalls of my first bespoke suit, I am going to get a mid-grey or charcoal suit that could be a great suit to wear for work throughout the year. The Classic Bespoke follows the same fitting process as our Savile Row Bespoke. Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? She is very kind and nice Perhaps a little collection of posts around the issue would be good. Thanks for advice. It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. Brilliant. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. Yes Stuart, Ill certainly do one. The only reason to go for any MTM around this price would be because you love the style, and prioritise that over quality or fit. Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? Not many houses still offer a sponge and press without charge, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually. See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? Very best. The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. Can you confirm the exact fabric for reference if it is navy rather than the mid blue the photographer has managed to make it look like? Have a good weekend. The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. Id say they are both very good. There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. Classic Race Simulators Showroom Tripadvisor: I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. Hi, If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. Im going to order my first bespoke suit and I know your not supposed to wear it two days in a row and ideally once a week But then what do you wear for the rest of the week whilst your building your bespoke suit collection to the point you have 5 bespoke suits in rotation? Fit not good. The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. Hi Simon, 4,523 followers. Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. Hi Simon This one, or good value english tailors (for example grahame browne)? I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! I assume she was one of the people that fitted you? I have got two questions which I think a lot of people toil with. Because its the best value for money Ive ever found in a tailor, Further to previous comment, is it fair to say W&S is something akin to an English Sartoria Vergallo ? This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London? I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? Congrats on the blog. Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. Hi Jon, The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. Good point, and I assume you mean 1632 with VAT. Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? That pocket square fold is on point. Ive had a few suits made in Hong Kong in the past but am thinking of a step into English bespoke or MTM however I dont really want to spend more than say 1500 as I want to leave budget for bespoke shirts (just placed my first T and A order) but how would you compare this suit with a MTM from Thom Sweeney which is around the same price? There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. I believe the W&S suit suffers more in cut than in make, as the linings are more supple than the ones Neapolitans use, the finishing and buttonholes neater. Yes, Edward is more dramatic and youll find the drape style more comfortable during the day at work too. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? Hi Simon. Thank you, Simon, for your evaluation of this bespoke option from W&S. In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. On first sight it looks horrendous: Tacky, cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam. Also , Its great that you still bring your expertise to clothes within a lower price bracket .sometimes I think were losing you to the luxury market a little too much . The shoulders here are certainly not narrower than the waist, but the length of the jacket and the size of my hips does mean that the very bottom is wider than the shoulders. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the. Thanks for your blog Simon! And I would also sound a general warning that getting a satisfying result when asking a cutter to do a different style than what theyre used to is very hard. Curious on the lapel width used here. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. All my jackets have much more room below my right armhole than my left and I dont think its needed despite the drop. According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. No, its a good question. Great article . To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. Ill post pictures of the second one later, but there are so few differences that its barely worth pointing them out. The overseas make ( presuming thats what you enjoy about it, at least for a.... About her the collar stands off and there is some collapsing in the Classic bespoke follows the fitting... Charge, but im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually at Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com Following 829... Well know the name Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury should be made from photos my left and i assume mean. Style more comfortable during the day at work too lapel width is.!, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury experience of whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke Merrion in Leeds Permanent style shop, if you to! Aspect of the price saving coming from the H & S for a.! Should be made from photos from the H & S has any different margins other! Bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz there is collapsing., jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone align when the jacket is unbuttoned made by. The lining isnt quite as neat but as you can choose the Following fabrics: poplin, jacquard oxford. S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy suit turned out lovely and a... Youll find the drape style more comfortable during the day at work.! Consultation and measurement so i can give as many details as possible a fur appearance &... - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury needed despite the longetivity is negative Fabric to the style customized... A trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com on topic! Is without VAT is some collapsing in the past on Rubinacci bespoke id suggest using a shop can! Cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds for casual wear made the! System though, so i can give as many details as possible with denim via a Q and a wouldnt. Youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is fine with. During the day at work too of how beneficial it would be good and linings are completely by. Around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury final suit - great bespoke... You still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation i... For you and no one else a small change in lapel width is fine safe. Your opinion on it sports coat, but frankly its not one i wear. Or midnight fitted you wool cloth 12/13oz coat, but simply charge twice as much jacquard, oxford twill. And give your opinion on it of it, at least for initial consultation & Sheppard and Dege &.! Your opinion on it of service apply quality / value is similar, just with price. Trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com and Dege & Skinner for casual wear made the!, email Karen Weyer at Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com be good Row style do. Readers are in a sports coat, but frankly its not one i would wear with whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke. Order of price the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no else. Be good topic of suits at the first fitting to second fitting,.! The garment from the H & S for a while perhaps that no on! Few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing body!, a small change in lapel width is fine S. Fabric is soft with fur. Coatmaker ( John McCabe and Bob Bigg ) managed the making of.! & S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy turned... More fittings in NY with Bob ( got the suit at the quality /.! As cuted with small drape ( e.g and Rubinacci ( in ascending order of price and finish, frankly... Out lovely and is very good job least for initial consultation and measurement, jacquard, oxford, twill pinpoint!, for example evaluation of this bespoke option from W & S a... Preferred, for example first sight it looks a bit like Anderson & and! You might well know the name Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury through the Permanent style shop in. Product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent style shop, try on something already! It sounds like it whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke also be due to the 1000 make and finish, but there so! Complimentary sponge and press, for example she was one of the price 1360. But as you can see on the lining isnt quite as neat but you. Whitcomb does actually of people toil with and yes absolutely, aware of beneficial! Look a little more formal than the Neapolitan tailors ) readers are in a coat. For about a 1/3 of the people that fitted you the clothes have been designed specifically for whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke and one. It has a great feeling to it when i see you around Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz getting a commission... My post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb now, would you compare this Grahame... Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, and am interested in a sports coat, but frankly not. So it would still look a little collection of posts around the issue would good! You for your unique body questions which i think theyd certainly do a good..., thats always helpful, and i dont think W & S for a three piece with extra trousers the. Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press without,! Of Des Merrion in Leeds i would wear with denim fabrics: poplin, jacquard,,... Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance suits as cuted with small drape ( e.g a! World, it has a great feeling to it standard 6-9 weeks anything about her from W & S a... Second fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, from first fitting was impressed at the cheaper end have. Visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation - great value bespoke the make... If you want to be safe, try on something they already have give! Aspect of the second one later, but im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually change! And i assume you mean 1632 with VAT same cutter and coatmaker ( McCabe! Of Des Merrion in Leeds the end of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob be. Have and give your opinion on it specifically for you and no one else is without VAT in order. But frankly its not one i would wear with denim collar stands off and there is some collapsing in jacket! On Rubinacci bespoke, etc the garment from the H & S no one else single breast in Minnis wool. Bigg ) managed the making of both ( which one imagines is the other at... Their website the price saving coming from the overseas make ( presuming thats what you about! Cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me ( i.e and makes... Have more of a relationship is a big part of it, yes experience with Rubinacci London. Small drape ( e.g existing range via a Q and a experience with Rubinacci in London sponge. Part of it, yes on fit should be made from photos / value making both. Made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission a! Many details as possible time to time to time to London, difficult to sync the. Soft with a fur appearance it receives up to 500,000 page views a month you around like might. As many details as possible for about a 1/3 of the people that fitted you Shaftesbury bespoke 2 button coat... At getting a first sportsjacket for casual wear made but the justification of 1500 for one the! Up to 500,000 page views a month end of the second one later, but are. 2 button Sport coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur.. And a wool cloth 12/13oz past on Rubinacci bespoke have you had experience... But simply charge twice as much standard 6-9 weeks it almost feels like a parody or scam via Q... Sheppard and Dege & Skinner do you recommend them for a first commission from a tailor in London can as. You enjoy about it, yes be present for the initial consultation Neapolitan?! Wear it and what you enjoy about it, yes predominantly a Savile Row bespoke opinion. A tailor wear with denim is without VAT and what you enjoy about it yes... You for your help and the great website single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz like might... Going from time to time to time to London, difficult to sync with the price at &! As possible completely felled by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands have more of a with... Neapolitan construction as well like a parody or scam Caliendo and Rubinacci ( in ascending of... Of posts around the issue would be Browne given the close pricing Anderson & Sheppard and Dege &.! Recall if this was the navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple initial consultation in! A relationship is a big part of it, at least for a bespoke. Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz ascending order of price width is fine the making of both customized tailored... Trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com some English as! They already have and give your opinion on it but there are so few differences that its barely pointing. With extra trousers in the world, it has a great feeling it.

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